Ramadan brings quite a mood to this predominantly Muslim country. During this month of Ramadan, the official working hours are changed from the regular 8 a.m.-5 p.m. to 9 a.m.-3:30 p.m. so that people can go home before sunset and break fast. Sunset is around 6 p.m. these days.
I was told to take it easy during this month – everything slows down. People are expected to shift from the normal routine. They take extra breaks for prayer. Some try to pray all five prayers at mosques. You can see mosques on every street corner of Dhaka. During Ramadan, they are filled with worshippers.
Just after 2 p.m., you can see a sudden increase in traffic as commuters head home for “iftar,” meaning breakfast or snack. Most people eat at home, but a growing number of people who can afford to eat out. Preparing for iftar is a festive occasion. The snacks are decorated in a plate or plaque with multiple items, some sweet, some sour or very hot. The menu can be so grand and colorful that your eyes can fill your appetite.
In the Bangladeshi tradition, there are two essential items that you wouldn’t think of Iftar without them – “chola,” which are black chickpeas, and “muree,” or puffed rice. Chola is cooked with different spices and sprinkled with tomato and cilantro. Muree is mixed just before you are ready to eat. One would normally break fast with imported dates or lemonade or some other fruit drinks. Soft drinks are not as common as you might think even though they are widely available. Fruits also are an important part of iftar. I love the guava and “Amra,” a crunchy, round, dark green fruit that tastes little sour. You can eat it with a touch of salt and pepper.
You can tell when iftar begins when you hear the simultaneous call for prayers from the mosques and local tv stations. When Iftar begins, the bustling streets almost come to a halt for about 30 minutes as people take a break to have iftar. At night, the streets are busy again. Some people go out to shop in preparation for “Eid,” one of the main festive occasions at the end of 29- or 30-day Ramadan period. Others head out to the mosques for praying “taraweeh,” a special prayer held in congregations during Ramadan where the whole Quran is recited in parts each day until the end of Ramadan.
This is my second week in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Being away from Dhaka for so many years gives me a refreshing look at the people and places. More about the people of Bangladesh coming up later.